dObra[s] - Revista da Associacao Brasileira de Estudos e Pesquisas em Moda
dObra[s]
- URL: https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras/index
- Call For Paper Type: SI
- H2 Index: 0
- Submission Date: 2023-10-30
Feminism & Women's Studies Gender Studies History Humanities, Literature & Arts (General) Visual Arts Crafts, Design & Arts Anthropology Interdisciplinary Studies (General) Culture
dObra[s] Issue 41:
Dossier “Fashion and gender: a historical perspective”
Organizers:
- Carina Borges Rufino (Independent researcher)
- Maria Claudia Bonadio (UFJF)
- Valéria Faria dos Santos Tessari (Independent researcher)
Deadline for full article submission October 30th 2023
Publication due to August 2024
This special issue aspires to assemble articles, interviews, book reviews, and translations that revolve around the relations between fashion and gender, from different historical perspectives, while considering fashion and gender not as fixed concepts, but as concepts that are structured from different contexts, which makes them situated historical constructions.
The historicization of this theme allows us to think of how the relations between fashion and gender were built in distinct times and spaces, denaturalizing conceptions that end up structuring societies.
We will welcome works that address, but are not limited to:
- the idea of cultural construction in the separation between feminine and masculine attire; how was this division elaborated throughout history and in different places through case studies or bibliographic review;
- the use and elaboration of clothing and appearances as ways of resistance to the standard gender identities;
- in which way do the concepts attached to the ideas of gender in fashion are made, such as masculine, feminine, unisex, genderless, etc;
- the mediatic (publicity, press, television, cinema, etc) discourse on fashion and gender;
- approximations between fashion and art as a form of transgression of gender standards or propositions about these identities;
- the uses of visual culture as a sort of construction and/or criticism of the gender standards in fashion;
- the relation between pop culture, fashion and gender;
- the role of museums and material culture in the production, reproduction or transgression of such concepts;
- critical approaches to fashion historiography;
- feminist theories and matters on fashion and gender.
Works written from intersectional perspectives, and that may address spatial cuts outside the main urban axes in Brazil and in the world will be especially welcome.
References
AUSLANDER, Phillip. Performing Glam Rock: Gender & Theatricality in Popular Music. Michigan: The University of Michigan Press, 2006.
BARD, Christine. Historia política del pantalon. Barcelona: Tusquets Editores, 2012.
BONADIO, Maria Claudia. Moda e sociabilidade: mulheres e consumo na São Paulo dos anos 1920. São Paulo: Editora Senac SP, 2007.
CARVALHO, Vânia Carneiro de. Gênero e artefato: o sistema doméstico na perspectiva da cultura material – São Paulo, 1870-1920. São Paulo: EDUSP, 2008.
CARVALHO, Vânia Carneiro de. Quando sonhar está na moda: a nostalgia do feminino na cultura de consumo. História: Questões & Debates, Curitiba, volume 65, n.2, p. 149-195, jul./dez. 2017.
COLE, Shaun. ‘Don we now our gay apparel’: Gay Men’s Dress in the twentieth century. Oxfor/New York: Berg, 2000.
CRANE, Diana. A moda e seu papel social. São Paulo: Senac, 2006.
ENTWISTLE, Joanne. El cuerpo y la moda: una visión sociológica. Barcelona: Paidós, 2002.
FORTY, Adrian. Objetos do desejo: Design e Sociedade desde 1750. São Paulo: Cosac & Naif, 2007.
FLÜGEL, J. C. A psicologia das roupas. São Paulo: Editora Mestre Jou, 1966.
GONÇALES, Guilherme Domingues. Mulheres engravatadas: moda e comportamento feminino no Brasil, 1851-1911.São Paulo: Intermeios, 2020.
HOLLANDER, Anne. O sexo e as roupas: evolução do traje moderno. Rio de Janeiro: Rocco, 1996.
GRAZIA, Victoria de.; FURLOUGH, Ellen (Eds.) The sex of things: gender and consumption in historical perspective. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1996.
KERBER, Linda. Separete spheres, female worlds, woman's place: the rhethoric of women history. The Journal of American History, n. 1, june, 1988.
LOEB, Lori Anne. Consuming angels: advertising and Victorian women. New York: Oxford University Press, 1994.
MALERONKA, Wanda. Fazer roupa virou moda: um figurino de ocupação da mulher (São Paulo 1920-1940). São Paulo: Senac, 2007.
MONTGOMERY, Maureen E. Displaying women: spectacles of leisure in Edith Wharton’s New York. New York, Routledge, 1998.
PAOLLETI, Jo B. Pink and Blue: Telling the boys from the girls in America. Bloomington: Indiana Press, 2012.
PAOLLETI, Jo B. Sex and Unissex: Fashion, Feminism, and the Sexual Revolution. Bloomington: Indiana Press, 2015.
PERROT, Michelle. Minha história das mulheres. São Paulo: Contexto, 2017.
RUFINO, Carina Borges. Tem pra menino? Disputas discursivas no âmbito comunicacional do consumo de moda agênero. Tese (Doutorado em Comunicação e Práticas de Consumo) – Programa de Pós-Graduação em Comunicação e Práticas de Consumo, Escola Superior de Propaganda e Marketing (ESPM), São Paulo, 2022.
SANTANNA, Denize Bernuzzi de. História da beleza no Brasil. São Paulo: Contexto, 2014.
SPARKE, Penny. As long as it’s pink: the sexual politics of taste. London: Pandora, 1995.
SIMILI, Ivana e BONADIO, Maria Claudia (org.). Histórias do vestir masculino: narrativas de roupas, beleza, elegância. Maringá: Eduem, 2017.
SOUZA, Gilda de Mello e. O espírito das roupas: A moda no século XIX. São Paulo: Companhia das Letras, 1987.
TESSARI, Valéria Faria dos Santos. Louvre, o rei das sedas: consumo de moda e sociabilidades femininas em Curitiba – PR (1935-1945). 2019. Tese. 349 f. (Doutorado em Design). Programa de Pós-Graduação em Design, Universidade Federal do Paraná, 2109.
WILSON, Elizabeth. Enfeitada de sonhos: moda e modernidade. Rio de Janeiro: Edições 70, 1989.
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